Shoreline of change

Escaping into solitude with shorelines of sand, pluff mud and reeds...

There are many reasons to visit, live, or linger in the Lowcountry region of South Carolina. What I value most is her sultry way of letting me just be...to wonder and wander without limitation.

Port Royal, SC is a small village of almost nothing, but everything at the same time. We've seen a great deal of change in the economy of this small town through the financial market crash to being hit last year with a tropical storm and a hurricane. The village is about to undergo some big change this fall as a port redevelopment project gets underway.

I will mourn the loss of the "sleepy" nature of my village along the coast. The port project will bring commerce and activity as well as a great deal of visual/physical change to the village center. At the same time, I welcome what such a development will offer the community, her people, the market of opportunity, and perhaps maybe even my own endeavors.

Heading into fall I know change is afoot.
My remarks to town council related to the port property during the open public comment period in August 2017:

I served on the redevelopment commission for the Town of Port Royal for eight years and am quite familiar wth the port property, past and present. 

Historically, careful consideration was given to conducting charrettes to “take in” public opinion when the sale of this port was placed on our table to develop.

What seems evident to me in these public forums is that the citizens of Port Royal reflect back to that thoughtful process with great pride.  [As do I] It is a benchmark for many and a healthy one to leverage in the discourse or discussions related to the port.

However, even then we did not all agree about the future of the port nor will we all agree today in what is to come. It’s healthy discourse to disagree with so many diverse interests in one small town like ours, ONE THAT IS COOL.

In making decisions connected to this port as our designated body of decision makers, our council members have to make choices that serve those who will come along long after they and many of us are gone.

Please keep in mind that access is not only a public right of way but also in the opportunity to participate in the commerce and activity of this port. The jobs and commercial activity of what is to grow and thrive inside this port and in close proximity will have positive economic impact on our ability to enjoy both the land and sea of our community, ONE THAT IS COASTAL.

In terms of any land swap...

• don’t give away what improves our quality of life and existing views;
• do enhance what we see.

In terms of the existing dry stack...

• don’t overlook what could be done today to create immediate opportunity for economic gain;
• do weigh the future over the past.

The role of our members of council certainly includes sustaining long term growth and viability for our town, its residents and business owners. As such our assets should be configured so that they shine bright in this FAR FROM ORDINARY town.

Thank you.

Lowcountry reflection on Hurricane Matthew

Oct 6: A safe distance from harm's way with a looming hurricane gives rise to a great many thoughts about living. I have prayed a great deal for the safe keeping of the South Carolina Lowcountry this last 24 hours, most especially for its people who are weathering out or working through the storm, its natural landscape and most certainly its humble wildlife. My home will either be there battered, under water or with some luck still standing when I return next week. The realities of living in a hurricane zone are always there but the truth is, after one gets cozy in the lifestyle and good weather the lingering reality of severe weather gets pushed back to a vague recognition of "it could happen but hasn't for a great many years." I adopted #SouthCarolina as my state 13 years ago and while I may not be a native daughter I most certainly call my little Charleston salt box and small plot of pond life along her coast "home."

Oct 8: Recovery. We can do this!

Oct 9: It has been said many times over last 72 hours so worth acknowledging that the social platform of @Facebook played a crucial role in keeping #Lowcountry residents connected, near and far, during #HurricaneMatthew. From media coverage to local citizen reporters to the delivery of simple photographs and messages of hope. These made a difference in the experience. I am tainted by my affection for new media and its relevance in contemporary discourse, but honestly I'd give Mark Zuckerberg a big hug and invite him to sit on my porch to shoot the breeze and talk about pond life right now if presented the opportunity. And we'd be remiss if we didn't also acknowledge Sprint, Verizon and AT&T for giving us the bandwidth to find huge value in cellular communications during a natural disaster. Thank you.

Oct 9: What many outside our area won't connect to the natural disaster otherwise known as #HurricaneMatthew is the fact that jobs are lost as a direct result of the devastation. The longer recovery takes, the economy of the entire community suffers and the individuals connected to the hospitality industry (hotels, resorts, pubs, restaurants, grocery stores, musicians/entertainers, golf courses, tennis courts, marinas, etc) will be hardest hit. We need to make sure we support these folks while they are in transition.

Oct 10: Yep I made it through another year to tell many more tall tales, hug every single one of you at least once virtually (and a few of you in person) and sit on my side porch countless times with a great deal to be thankful for in this life. I am subdued in my celebration this year amid the news of hardship that so many of you are facing in post storm recovery. Your early morning messages and texts are so very heart warming and definitely generated big smiles. I urge you to join me in celebrating by making a donation to your local American Red Cross or Salvation Army and/or volunteer your time to aid someone in need. Do this and I'll celebrate the year ahead knowing we all paid it forward.

Oct 11: We are all grateful for any and all efforts to secure our homes in Beaufort County and to sustain our well-being before, during and after Hurricane Matthew's impact along the South Carolina coast. We'd be remiss if we did not acknowledge there was an intention to do right by the citizens of this county. However, the lesson in post-storm reflection is truly for better and clearer communications between municipalities, county government, local law enforcement, emergency response teams, our governor and state officials. Senator Davis' positive glean on what transpired and his own role in relaying information is commendable. Representative Erickson's authentic response to the lack of a solid crisis communication plan at all levels should get the applause. Let's appreciate the valuable lesson captured in this experience and convey that we expect more if ever faced with this type of natural disaster again.

Oct 13: Finally made it back. A plethora of deer along the roadways, smell of pluff mud is stronger than usual, and tree debris piled up high on curbs. A few obvious structural issues at the house that even the night sky can't mask and it all may certainly look different by the light of day, but for now I'm going to count myself luckier than most and thank the universe for small blessings.

Oct 13: Biggest concern I've heard thus far from the small business owners in the area is loss of revenue, if they did not have 'interruption insurance' what can they do to recoup that loss?

Oct 13: The human stories are worth telling. The gentleman that came to fix my door jam today returned to the Lowcountry yesterday just as I did, only he found his home looted, I did not. What makes his story worth telling isn't the fact that he got robbed. It's that he did not let that define his experience of evacuation and returning home.  He took his tool belt and talent to HIlton Head island this morning and before going home this evening to his own family made a stop at my house at 6p to fix my door. And tomorrow morning he will go back to HIlton Head Island and again stop to see me before going home to tackle my water soaked attic. To witness such resiliency and determination is to know that we are not alone and that each of us matter. More importantly, there are the kindest souls out there willing to bring what they can to any situation.Here's to Aaron for making a difference in my own experience of recovery. Thank you.

Oct 15: Recovery. We got this.  

Stormy skies

The landscape of the coast shifts greatly with a change in the weather. Sitting on the enclosed porch at 11th Street Dockside in Port Royal, SC we captured a glimpse of this inland storm moving off the coast.

Skate or Ray?

The Lowcountry is beaming with natural wonders and low tide provides for a glimpse at some of what we may not capture when the shoreline is flush at high tide. Walking along the boardwalk at the port of Port Royal, South Carolina we got a glimpse of what is either a skate or ray. The big debate, which is it?! One onlooker said a "Southern Ray," another indicated the fins at the end of the tail discern the difference. Seems fitting to use #WorldOceansDay to make a trip to the Port Royal Sound Foundation to get a final say on the matter of designation.

Day 7: Lowcountry where Other Mothers thrive

Ann-Marie:

We live in very special places. I in Port Royal, you in Beaufort. A world away from so much else and yet close enough to know the universe.

The port of Port Royal, SC

Writing about the area in context of the story naturally translates into that much of the book is about living here. How could one NOT ~ finding oneself surrounded by the simpleness of time bathed in sunlight and coated in the salt tears of a clock standing still. It is the Slowcountry. One I relish for its lack of routine other than the tide, fishing, boating, cocktail hours and natural escapes.

Teresa:

We are jackpot-lucky to live in this place, and I think Bryne felt the same way. She and Duncan were expats in their own country and I think it's important that they chose this place to live and work.  I so connect with that that I wanted to do that justice.   So the Lowcountry, in "The Other Mother" is more than just a location, it's a central character.

Duncan, in particular, so needed to be near water that he was willing to return to the same stretch of coastline where his childhood had been ruined (he was born in Charleston). Byrne probably would have been just as happy to live out her life in Santa Fe, where she actually founded the Byrne Miller Dance Theatre. She found the desert mountains freeling and limitless. It was her daughter Jane that we have to thank for the Bryne Miller Dance Theatre moved to Beaufort.  This daughter of rebellious, Vietnam War protesting bohemian parents joined the Marine Corps! When Jane and her husband at the time were stationed at MCAS Beaufort, Ducan and Byrne followed her here and made it her home.

For me, the water in particular is what makes this place so special.  I first started writing about it in the "Transfer of Grace: Images of the Lowcountry." The way the tides are so reliable, so undefeatable, gives me a sense of perspective. Nothing we stress about in any given moment will be the same six hours from now.
narrative essay that accompanies my husband's photographs in

"Twice a day the waters reverse course and flood the marshy inlets once again.  All that is lost returns."

I still feel the magic and the majesty of the Lowcountry every time I come back from a road trip and drive over the Whale Branch River.  Again from the book ~

"For a brief thrilling moment, the Whale Branch River Bridge releases all who travel over it from gravity.  You look down from an Osprey's eye view into a fish-full ribbon of life.  the water is a shimmering membrane, wide and porous.  Salt and sweet, past and present glid in opposite directions."


The Other Mother: a rememoir by Teresa Bruce

Tell us about what surrounds you...

High five for Mary, a team player in destination travel

We all have great affection for good customer service.  Sometimes our expectations are crushed, other times we are elated when it is done well.  Those of us who work in or around the F&B or hospitality/travel industry have a key appreciation for this aspect of our business.

Just look at the plethora of resources out there to get it right.  One notable of late comes from Rich Gallagher whom I met when he was at the CBORD group and I at Cornell.  He leads the Point of Contact Group and his recent release The Customer Service Survival Kit (#1 on Amazon for customer service) ~ one of many great reads written by him ~ takes the art of "deeply hearing" and makes it an easily applicable tool for those on the front lines of people management.

I do think it's teachable, this handling of people thing.  However, there are individuals that simply ooze it from their pores with very little thought about it. I have plenty of experiences with these oozer types in my back yard.  Take Oscar the bartender at Saltus River Grill, who remembers your face and your name even out of uniform to introduce you to his family, because in his eyes you are one of his peeps.  There's Nick Borreggine who owns Fat Patties that will take your text about your 84 year old father coming to dine in because you are home sick, who then sends ice cream home to put you on the mend.  And Nancy Vista of Nuances who's outlasted many in the business sector along Parris Avenue in the Old Village of Port Royal. She has always put "local" on the map in a village seen more as a side show than a main event~no one leaves her store empty handed or without knowing a bit more about the Town of Port Royal.

Any day of the week I could provide an abundant list of the individuals with the uncanny ability to do it (customer service) right, but what spurred my interest this week was a trip to Savannah and a stop for breakfast at a Denny's on Abercorn Street. You know how it goes, you're dining with your elderly father, on a holiday weekend in a major destination location just outside Hunter Army Air Base, the dining room is filled with young families with multiple children in tow. What made the experience rather special was Mary our waitress. For every table she sat she asked where they were from, how long were they here for and then proceeded to provide several "not to miss" suggestions as to where the family could go.  On our departure I remarked to her how special her effort was (going above and beyond). She replied "30 years I've been in this business and I have grand babies at home, I have a keen sense of what people can do in our town."  I for one know there are many fine people that make a living in the food and beverage industry, despite the best efforts of many to deny its significance, so my first instinct was to applaud her longevity, but what struck me was her use of "our" town. I'm rather obsessed with communities speaking in plural terms "our," "we," etc.

The best referral comes from someone local and informed. Here's a petite woman, in uniform, clad in an over-sized Easter Egg necklace and a pastel colored sweater schlepping food, taking the time to make the breakfast experience more than about a plate of food. A genuine encounter with someone from Savannah who cares enough to walk you out the door into other parts of the city.  That's grand.  A local working the floor with a clear understanding of the big picture in destination travel. In a city filled with great food and multiple breakfast options, it clearly would be worth the drive to experience Mary again.

An army of individuals work hard to make us feel welcome on the road or at home. As we head into the peak season of the year for travel (summer) let's not ever fail to recognize their efforts on our behalf.

Leisure Settings and Sipping

One of my greatest pleasures in life was to spend some work related time in Amsterdam, The Netherlands. The experience so grand that I ventured back to Holland in my personal travel, spending a great deal of time in Utrecht with friends.

The people, food, and lifestyle of the country simply relaxing, green (literally and figuratively), filled with water recreation, artistic and cultural diversity and divinely blessed with beautiful citizens inside and out.  Much of what one "likes" when visiting a place is for what one can find to do there, but I would also add "for what one can NOT do there."  That is, the art of living a moment unencumbered. A moment enjoyed just long enough to have escaped a routine or relished briefly as an interlude far and away from more taxing times of the day.

I found ample space in my itinerary among the Dutch for ventures to the cafes to sip on hot beverages~and consume an inordinate amount of stroopwaffles.  To this day, one of my all time favorite simple pleasures in life is to enjoy leisure moments sipping. That simple act, sipping, may transpire alone, with a good read or a friend in deep conversation.  Cold or hot, sipping is my leisure habit of choice.

There was a point in my coastal life when "cafe time" was a simple two block walk away from my home office.  During that time I found a place to collect my thoughts, share space with others and become an active participant in a subset of my local community. Sadly that local coffee house closed and has yet to be replaced (there are two delightful coffee shops~City Java and Common Ground available in nearby Beaufort, but require a little more effort than a stroll down the block). Thus, from there grew my house made adventures in concoctions of all sorts.

House made Chai or more descriptively spiced milk tea has become my afternoon escape in the absence of my local coffee shop. I have experimented with a wide variety of recipes (and trust me when I say many abound across the internet~varying slightly in the components, i.e., the type of tea, the spice inclusions and/or the choice of sweetener). But my preferred version at this time continues to be an Epicurious version of Masala Chai that includes white peppercorns and fennel seeds.

Travel to escape or visit other climes continues to appeal, but sipping never goes asunder at home in a locale that abounds with many an unencumbered moment.

So long oysters. Hello Soft Shell Crab!

By this point in the year those of us living in the Lowcountry have had our fill of oysters (well, maybe not everyone) so the inclusion of a new item on many local restaurant menus in April is cause for some celebration. During what I would call a short lived period there is a delicacy that is coveted by many coastal dwellers. Actually we are simply taking advantage of a reoccurring phenomena found in nature. That is, the period of time when crabs have molted their old exoskeleton and are still soft...Soft Shell Crab. Just this past week I noted that Plums and Saltus in Beaufort and Pour Richards in Bluffton have shouted out they are serving the softies. The Town of Port Royal actually takes the celebration to the old village streets every year (this year, April 23), brings the music (featured this year are the Headliners) and food frolic for it's 8th Annual Soft Shell Crab Festival. Believe it or not I've never prepared soft shell crab at home, I've done many a preparation with the hard shell version, but never ventured here. I went for the cookbook authored by the woman who introduced me to my first soft shell crab entree...Elizabeth Terry. Specifically the cookbook authored by Elizabeth and Alexis Terry in 1996 called Savannah Seasons. I believe Elizabeth Terry retired from her restaurant Elizabeth's on 37th the year the book was published, but I suspect the next generation of cuisine at the locale includes soft shell as a seasonal item.

Tips for dressing(cleaning and preparing)soft shell crab: http://www.ehow.com/video_2339408_clean-soft-shell-crab.html